









)'.',■■ :\!:vit:: 







«£s:cK^^CKi 






fC<m 






?av -^ 



zccS" cacL: 



€:'C<S:^<3CjC:< 






<?*>. 








<:■ <s«Ejgs*.«^< 


<-c< 


- <X ^Kg5®&"<<C^ 


«i' 


Cc .«at^S®<-<s'«*^ 


rctf 


wSX^i^^<ssr^<^:K 


rr 


^H^^^Li^^r? -53*'^l'-?f-5^ 



- < <^« -.^_ ■ 


^i^a^m 


(Si^ ••■^^ 


Mflp^ 


VfeKSa. 


otfB^^ 


C^^SZS* 


H^^B 


crises" 


K ^dHI 


<:L:!-<.C.t«M 


ti^B 


C <QCS!l 


r^s**? 



















^jCacs: cc < 






•<S 






«^<rc(S 



t^ <::<^^g«cai^: 



^Ss CI c: 






csC 



^ir^^s 



SSC& :<r 
















2S^£axMc^^ 



■^£5<^L€fti«r 


















=c ^ES- 









mms^T K''^^^^ 






SBJc 










^ c . -etc 






^^ic:<:^ 









cSsC < 









faS 









^■^r^X®:^;:.^ 












^ tScsrc 



.J^^CI^^J 






vd <mrt-^rf- 



f 
M i--^-" 



e/dilday's 



PL^II^^ J^NID COlSrCISE METHOD 



OF 



GARMENT CUTTING: 



so AS TO 



FIT ALL POSSIBLE FORMS OF PERSONS, 



WITH 



DIEECTIOIS FOE PUTTING THE WORK TOGETHER, 



READY FOR SEWING. 



,r^'^'-^- 



ST. LOUIS, MO.: 

KEITH, WOODS & Co., PRINTERS, 88 MARKET STREET, 

1856. 



Entered .iccordiug to Act of Congress, in the year A. D. 18.55, by E. DILDAY, in the Clerk's Office of the 
District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of Illinois. 



'A^^i 



fi'^ 



"^ 



(HUM EN T CUTTl!^fG. 



DIRE C T I N S 

FOiv MEASUUISa AND MAlCIN'i! NUTCnt'S AND NUMBERS ON TUE MEASURING PAPEH. 

Preparation. — -Make a ineasuriui!; line by (loul)liiiii- a loiiji', iiaiTOw 
stii]) of paper, leniitlnvise, wliieli will make Ji closed edii'e and an 
o])eu ed;;e of your measure. Then cut a notch in the middle of one 
end; and this is called the upper end, from which you will commence 
measurini;-. Then remembei', that in measurin<j; aroinid any part, take 
half a distance on the line of measurement, and cut a notch on the 
closed edg'e of the measuring paper. 

Measurement for a Co'at. 

1st. Measure around the breast, close under the arms, (instructing 
youi- customer to have his breast full, by drawing the breath full.) 
Double the measuring paper, to get half the length of the breast 
measure, and cut a notch at tlie place of doubling, on both edges of 
your measuring paper. This is the only one Avhich has more than one 
notch. 01)serve to measure on the notched end. 

2d. Measure around the waist, on the notched end of your paper. 
Take distance as before, and cut a notch on the closed side or edge. 

3d. Length of Sleeve. — Take the measure for the length of the 
sleeve thus: Place the notched end of your measure at the center of 
tlie back, between the shoulders, having the arm held out square with 
the body, and half bent at the elbow" ; extend your measure to the 
hand, on the back part of the arm, as far down the wrist, or hand, 
as your customer wants the sleeve, and cut a notch in the open edge. 
Remember, the width of the back piece is left off, when cutting the 
length of the sleeve by this measure. 

4th. Lexoth op Coat. — Measure from the collar, down the back, 
to the smallest part of the waist, and cut a hole in the middle of your 
paper, or measure. 

5th. Measure the length of the skirt from the waist down, and if it 
fells below the sleeve, measure and cut off the lower end of your 
paper; if not, cut it off" at sleeve length, and cut a notch in the opeu 
edge for this measure. 

6tli. Breadth of Sleeve. — After your paper is cut off, then measure 
with the lower end, around the elbow, while bent. Take half the 
distance, and cut a notch in the closed edge. 

7th. Measure around the hand, or fist, wdth the low^er end of your 
paper, and take half the distance, and cut a notch in the closed side, or 
edge. If for an overcoat, measure round the fist. 

8th. Front Measure. — For front measure, take the notched cud of 



18 DILDAT'S METHOD OF GARMENT CUTTIXG. 

the paper, and place it on the back of the neck, at the collar-seam^ 
and measure do^wu in front, as tar as tlio waist is desired, and cut a 
hole through the paper ; and when you a]i])ly it to tlie clotli, leave ott' 
the breadth of the back-piece at top for the length of shoulder-strap. 
9th. For Breast LEX(;Tn. — Measure from this last notch, np in 
front, as far as your customer Avants the breast to join the collar, 
and cut a hole throuo'h the middle of the paper. This being- sufficient 
for all sorts and fashions of coats and vests, we proceed to nuike the 
numbers, etc. Observe, that in measuring for an overcoat, take your 
measures full over another coat. 

To Make the Numbers. 

Rule. — All numbers by the aforesaid measures, for cutting gar- 
ments, are made from the breast measure, by doubling your paper 
and taking half the distance, as you have been directed. Now, in mak- 
ing the numbers, begin by taking the notched end of your paper, at 
which you began to measure; bring this end down to the two notches, 
(one oil each side of your measuring paper,) which is your bi-east 
measure, and Avhich you cut for breast measTire, so as to get half of 
the length from the top end to these two notches, and cut a notch 
there, on the closed edge of your paper. This notch is called No. 
IG. Then put your notched end to this notch IG, get half the 
distance, and cut another notch on the same edge of your paper. 
This notch is No. 8; and so keep on down to No. 1, making half 
distances each time — thus, notch IG, notch 8, and notch 4, 2, and 1 — 
cutting a notch on the closed edge at each place. Then take notch 
16, and place it to the notches cut for breast measure. Cut a notch 
in the open side of your paper, at the center of the double, half 
distance between the breast measure and No. IG, which Avill make 
No. 24; then place the notched end to No. 24, and notch in the open 
edge for No. 12; then make notches for Nos. G and 3, in the same 
way — cutting these notches in the o])en edges of your measuring 
paper, as you see them in the Drafts of the Measurement. 

This completes all the numbers that are necessary to be used in 
Garment Cutting, by this method. 

Gamut. 

To enable the beginners to measure a coat, without making mis- 
takes, let them learn the following short Gamut, so as to understaucl 
what the letters and figures signify, that are in the Draft. 

No.lG is one-fourth part round the breast; No. 8, the half of No. IG: 
No. 4, the half of No. 8; No. 2, the half of No. 4, and No. 1 is the 
half of No. 2. 

No. 24 is halfway between No. IG and breast measure; No. 12, the 
half of No. 24; No. G, the half of No. 12; No. 3, the half of No. 6, 
luihortj Breast Mea.sure is divided into thirty-tAvo numbers. 



r'iui\Y>- Miniioo OF (JAUMKXT curnxu. i^j 

Letters on the Draft. 

V>, Hiamh for hreast; E. for elbow: F, for fist; L, for length: M, for 
measure: S. for striiiu'; W, for waist: SL, for sleeve length: LA, for 
lack; FR, for front; SK, for skirt. 

Persons who have not a good memory to retain the figures and 
letters of the foregoing, will l>e better able to avoid mistakes, by 
putting the numbers on the measuring paper, as they cut the notches 
in dividing it. as dii'ected, and also names of measures, as you see them 
on tlie T)]-aft. 

Sack Coat— Directions for Drafting Back-piece. 

First. Lay your cloth on the table: ]iut the two ends of the cloth 
together, and fold it even and smooth, with the right side in. and see 
that the under, as well as the njtjiei* ])art, lies smooth and free from 
wrinkles, and have the selvedge next to you. Then, for the Back- 
])iece, if your selvedge is lujt straight, lay youi- straight edge, and 
chalk a sti-aight line near the edge, to mark l>y. Then, lay the 
notched end of your measure two nund.)ers iVom the top of this line, 
and dot the place with chalk, or wliat you prefer. Then extend your 
measure down the sclvetlge, to waist length, and dot this jdace. Then 
mark the j)lace of skirt length at the end of the pa])er. Then, at the 
middle or skirt length, make line A, as seen on the draft. Then, on 
this line, measure four numbers from the selvedge, for the slope of the 
wai-^t, and dot the place: and then draw lines 13 and C, according to 
draft; then measure on line 1>. Draw lines F and I>, as seen on the 
draft. Curve top end with string six numbers long; then measure off, 
and mai'k the length of these lines l)y the numbers on the draft, and 
dot the length, etc. Xow, take a string, waist-length, and sweep the 
curved lines F. and II. (hirve arm-hole; then draw line G, by hold- 
ing ])ivot hand on toi) end, with stj-inti- Avai<t and skirt length lonir; 
then draw Inie .}. 

To Draft Breast-piece. 

Lay your scpiare or straight ^^At^e near the edge, or selvedge, of 
your cloth, ami draw line A, as being designed for the center of the 
l)reast. Ap])ly your front measure on line A. measuring from the end 
of the cloth down to the waist, and dot this ])oiiit for a ]nvot, leaving 
off for the width of the to]i eiul of back-])iece, and curve line II for 
top end of shonlder-sti-ap. Then curve foi- your collar, according to 
the draft. Then take the length of side-seam from back-])iece, and 
apply it to line A. to get the distance between lines B and C. Then 
draw lines B and C. aiul measui-e on them, accoi'ding to the numbers, 
as you see them on the di'aft; and dot your places, and draw line I>. 
Take width of shoulder-stra]) from back-piece, to get tlie length of 
)ine H: then curve for side-seam and arm-hole, accordinsf to the 



20 DILI) AY '3 MEDHOD OP GARMENT CUTTIKO. 

draft; then apply skirt leii£;th to line A. Curve line G, by holding' 
the pivot hand on the upper end of shoulder-strap, and draw lines 
I and J. 

Directions for Drafting Sleeve. 

1st. Upper Part of Sleeve. — ]\Iake a dot two numbers from the 
end of your cloth, for the upper point of the back seam of the 
sleeve ; then draw line A on the selvedge of your cloth. Measure 
from the np])er point, down six numbers, then three numbers ; 
then draw lines B and C ; then lay your measure on line A, leaving 
off the width of the back-piece at the notched end; then dot it at 
sleeve length. Lay your finger on line B, put the notch for sleeve 
length under it^ dot it the doulile for elbow length, and draw lines E 
and F ; then apply your measure, as directed on the draft, and draw 
curved line D, by placing your left hand on line C, touching the dots 
on lines A and B; then draAv the curved line G, Avith a string the length 
of your sleeve. DraAving lines H and I, and it is ready for cutting. 

2d. When the upper part is cut, lay it on your cloth, and dot it at 
the angle, where lines B, D and G meet; then measure two numbers 
from the upjicr part of line A, on line D. Curve for under part of 
arm-hole, with a string one length from dot to dot; then curve from 
line C, on line A, to dot 2 on line D, with a string sleeve length, and 
it is ready for cutting. 

For Drafting Collar. 

Draw line A on the edge of the cloth, or piece; then take tlie 
length for the collar off the breast-piece. Where the collar is to be 
sewed on, and the width of the top eiul of back-piece, add them 
together; for the half length of the collar, dot the whole length on 
line A. From these dots, draw lines B and C. Then, if the collar is 
not straight, draw line D. with a string twice the length, from dot to dot, 
on line A. 

Directions for Gutting Back-piece of Dress Coat. 

Lay your cloth, ns directed for Sack-coat, and then draw a line 
near the selvedge, if not straight. Then lay your measure on the 
selvedge, or along this line; and, jnitting the notched end two numbers 
from the end of the cloth, mark the cloth at each end of the measure, 
and at waist length. Then draw' line A, and measure from the selvedge 
line four numbers, for slope of Avaist; dot and draw line B. Then, on 
line B, from to]) down, measiire according to your draft. Lay your 
square on line B, w-itli the corner, or angle, at each dot. Draw line D. 
Then di-aw line E at a parallel with line D. Then apply your numbers 
on each hne. Then, with a string the length of distance to waist of 
back-piece, draw the curved lines P and II, as seen on the draft. 
Finish the skirt, according to numbers on the draft, squarmg the 
lower end bv the first line or selvedge. 



DILDAY.S METHOD OF GARMENT CUTTING. 21 

Breast-piece of Dress Goat. 

Lay tlic sliort end of tlie sqiiai'C on the end of your clotli, and tlio long 
end near the solved i^'c, or where you Avant tlie line drawn for the center 
of the breast, leavino- room for the roundino; of front jiart of l)reast- 
]>iece. Then draw line A hy the long end of your square; draw line B 
by the short end. Apply your front measure to line AJeavino' off two 
numbers at the notched end, or A\'idtli of back-piece, at collar-seam; 
then draw line C; then take the length of side-seam from liack-piece. 
Apply it to line A, measuring from the junction of lines C and A; then 
draw line D. Apply your measures on lines B, C, and D, as you see 
them on the draft; then draw line E. Place your pivot-hand at the 
junction of lines A and C, if youi- customer is high or s(juare- 
shouldered. If droop-shouldered, six or eight numbers u]i line A, to 
curve line II, for top end of shoulder-straj). Then curve line F, with 
string length of side-seam. Then curve for lower and front part of 
arm-hole, with string four numl)ers long. Finish upper point, to the 
junction of lines I) and E, Avith string eight mrin1>ers long, and back 
part of arm-hole the same. Then take the Avidth of shoulder-strap 
off the l)ack-piece, and put it on line H. Tlien finish the u^iper part 
of arm-hole to this dot. Then curve for upper part of collar-seam, 
with string four mimbers long, and four doAvn,from line B, holding your 
pivot-hand one number beloAV line B; the remainder Avith string' ten 
or tAvelve numl)ers long. Then draAV curve line for hij), Avith string Avaist 
length; then round fi'ont part, Avith string from three to five feet long, 
making it most rounding at the upper ]iart, to suit your custoiner's. 
breast, or vary, to suit your fancy or fashion. 

To Draft the Lapel. 

Draft the Lapel according to the num1)crs on the draft. To do 
this, draw a line one numl)er longer than line J) of breast-piece; then 
draw another line the same length, four nmnbers from it. Then, Avith 
a string the same length that you i-ounded the breast-piece Avith, draw 
the curved line, as seen on the draft, one numl)er longer than the 
breast-i)iece, leaving room to clip ends to the form you Avant, after 
you scAV it on. Obsei've, that the rounded side of the lapel is 
sewed on, to make it fold back at the top of the breast of the coat. 

To Draft the Skiit. 

Place your square Avith one end four numbers from the end of your 
cloth, the side six numbers from the side of it; then draAV lines A and 
C by both ends of your square. By these lines, finish the skirt, 
according to the dii'cctions on the draft. 

Skirt for Frock or Overcoat. 

Look on your draft for frock skii-t. Then commence, by draAving 



•2-2 rULDAT'S METnOT) OP GATiMENT CrTTIXf!. 

a line skirt length down the edge, with the top end about twelve 
juimbers from the upjier end of your cloth. ]\Iark this place. Then 
take a string skirt length, and put your chalk on this mark; and with 
one end of the sti'ing and chalk in your riglit hand, hold the other end 
of the string with your left hand, straight above the end of line A, 
for a ])ivot, and mark tlie curved line B. Then mark the length of 
this line, as directed on the draft. Then mark the curved line C, 
either with a sti'ing double skirt length from the same jiivot, or take 
a string skii't length, and move Ibc left band along on line B, while, 
with your right band, you chalk line C. Then take a string, or 
straight edge, skirt length, and ])ut one end on the same pivot point, 
fi-om which your curved line B was made, where it is marked waist 
measure. Stretch it across this point, and draw line D, as seen on 
the di'aft. 

Double-breasted Waistcoat — Fore Part. 

Draw line A four numbers from the selvedge of your cloth. Lay 
yoiir front measure on this line, with the notched end up, leaving off 
the breadth of back-i)iece at toji, and dot at notch cut for front 
measure. Thei\ draw lines B and ( ', and apjily your measure to these 
three lines, according to the draft. Curve line 11, by holding your 
pivot hand at the junction of lines A and C. Apply your measure 
for shoulder-strap, according to the draft. Draw line D from line 
to line E, running through the arm-hole. Then nieasure for arm-hole 
twelve numbers down; curve lower part with string four numbers 
long: upper pail with string twelve numbers long; curve for collar 
with string six numbers long; curve for hip or peak with string waist 
length. Add lapel, according to the draft. 

Backpiece of Waistcoat. 

Measure sixteen numbers from the edge of the cloth. Then draw 
line A, f(n- the center of the back. Then double the cloth by the line 
pist drawn. Then lay the measure of the back-piece on the line A. 
'with the notched end two numbers from the end of the cloth, and 
dot at the notched end and at back length. Then curve line B, with 
a string five numbers long. Measure doAvii from line B, four numbei>; 
then ten numbers. Then draAV lines V, 1), and E, scpiare from line A. 
Apply vour measure according to the draft. Curve for arm-hole with 
onereiiiith of a string from hues E and 1), and finish according to 
the di-att. 

To Prepare Measurement for Pantaloons. 

Prepare your ])a]>er, by folding a long narrow strip, as directed 
for measuring for coats, and 

First. Measure round the smallest part of the waist with the notched 
end: take half the distance, and cut a notch in the closed edg^. Then 



I)lLI)AVt5 METHOD Of GARMKN'i' CU'I'II.Xl;. T, 

])lace the notched end at the smallest part of the waist or top of the 
hip; take the distance to the ankle, or to the floor, jnst as the panta- 
loons are wanted, and cnt off your paper. Then take the lower end, and 
nicasni-e around the knee when bent, and cut a notch on the closed 
edg'e. Then proceed to make the numbers to draft by, thus: Put the 
notched end to the notch cut for waist measure, and cut a notch on 
the closed edge, to make No. IG for ))ants. Then, l)y doultlino- your 
jiaper between 16 and the notched end, make Xo. 8, then 4 and 2. as 
directed for makino- coat nund>ers. Then make No. 24, by putting- 
No. 16 to the notch cut for waist measure, and cut a notch in the 
open edge at the doubling: this is No. 24. or stride measure. Then 
double the lower end to stride distance for knee length, and cut a 
notch in the open edge of your pa])er at the doul)ling. 

I For Drafting Pantaloons. 

Lay your measure on the selvedge ol' your clolh, with the notched end at the 
end of your cloth; make a dot there, at 1(3, at 24, or stride measure, at knee 
length, and at the ankle, or lower end of your measure. Then, square otf from 
the selvedge, di-aw the lines A, B, C, D and E, as on the draft. Then measure, 
on these lines, the lengths signified by the numbers on the draft ; and dot their 
length, and finish according to the draft ; this is the fore part. The draft for the 
back part, is made by the letters and numbers seen on your Draft Book. 



Having given instructions for Measuring, Drafting, and Cutting most of the 
outer garments of Men, which is the same tor Boys, I now proceed to give proof 
measure, which will show, that each j)art and piece of a garment cut by this 
system for one person, will correspond to its proper part in another piece ; so 
that it matters not what the form or proportions of the body may be, the directions 
given will enable any person that follows them, to draft correctly, by measuring 
the parts that are to be sewed together, by the numbers given. Hence, any 
person wishing to test the measures, taken as adapted to the size and shape of the 
person measured, can do it as follows : 

Take a string, and tie it around the waist, at the part where you want the waist 
of the coat; another, wliere you want the collar-seam, and one around each arm, 
where you want the sleeve-seam to join the body of the coat, and two strings across 
the back, between the shoulders — the upper one where you want the sleeve, 
shoulder-strap and back-piece to join, and tiie lower one, as tiir below as you want 
the back-piece to sew to the sleeve ; and one across the breast; each of these 
looped in those that are around the arms. Then apply your measuring paper to 
each line, down to the first and second strings. Tlien set down the numbers each 
time, on a blank draft prepared for that purpose. Then measure from point to 
point, or from seam to seam, continuing each time to set down the numbers on 
your draft. Determine the leuiith or slope of your shoulder-sfraj), by the use 
of a string, by moving its pivot up or down on the center of the breast. 

How to Change the Fashion and Fill Blank Draft 

Having given instructions for measuring and cutting to fit the body, I will 
proceed to give some directions how t« change fashions to suit the fancy of 



2-1 DILDAY'S METHOU OF GARMENT CL"1T1\(J. 

yourselves or customers. To accomplisli this : First. Make a blank draft on paper 
with a pen or pencil. 11^ you have a garment in the fashion you want to use, take 
a measure of the person this garment fits ; then make the numbers, measuring every 
part of the garment, and whatever amount of numbers or measures you find on 
the various parts, set the same down on that part of your draft to which they 
apply. Then you have a new draft of your desired fashion, which you may cut 
by, for all otiiers of the same form, whether they be large or small. 

Caution to Beginners. 

It would' be well for new beginners to be particular in Jioticing the numbers 
and measures before they commence cutting. The direction is to take a neat 
measure and draft correctly by it. When the draft is done, remember the seams 
are intended to be in the marks made for cutting by. You must then cut far 
enough outside of the mark, to allow for breadth of seam ; and at the breast, far 
enough for lapping as much as you wish to suit the fashion you desire, outside of 
the line intended for the center of the breast. 

Caution. 

Notice and count the numbers on the draft. The Sack-coat draft has sixteen 
numbers marked on the wide part ; and there remains sixteen numbers for the 
breast-piece, at the same point, extending to the center of the breast. At the 
waist, you have waist measure, lacking sixteen numbers; then there remains 
sixteen numbers to be used on the breast-piece, at the waist, to reach the center 
in front, nothing being allowed for seam or lapping. 

On the back-piece for Dress Coat, you will find thirteen numbers between the 
shoulders ; and there remains nineteen numbers for the breast-})iece, to reach the 
center ; although, on the draft, at that point, you will find twelve, four and five 
numbers, \vhich make twenty-one numbers, being two numbers over the seam or 
lapping, besides the lapel. At the waist, you will find four numbers ; then there 
remains waist-measure, to be used on the breast- piece, at the waist, lacking four 
numbers, which will just reach the center, and nothing over. These remarks are 
made, that you may comprehend the size of your garment before you cut it. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



Draft ^o. 1 

Has the Draft of the Measuring Paper, with all the notches, measures and 
numbers marked on it, that are necessary to be used. In drafting by this method for 
all sorts, styles and lashions of every garment which may be desired, in city or 
country, to "be worn on the body, no matter what form the person may be, the 
notches will vary to suit it. Thus, for example, if a man be small around the 
breast, stoop-shouldered and long in the back, it will cause the waist-length to 
fall below breast-measure ; but if the size and form be reversed, it would cause it 



DILDAYS METHOD OF GARMENT CUTTING. 25 

to be above waist-measure ; so you must understand, wlien you are measuring and 
notching, that you are getting the form, as well as size. 

No. 1 has the Draft, also, of a plain Sack-coat, which is very suitable to learn 
by, and makes a tolerably good fit. The collar need not be so wide. Tlie sleeve 
may be a little more crooked at the elbow, if yoii choose, and made one or two 
numbers smaller at the top, if you want a close fit. 

Draft Mo. 2 

Contains Dress-coat and Frock-coat skirt, and is large enough, witliout the 
Lapel, and may be used for Frock-coat or Over-coat. 

Braft STo. 3 

Contains a Lady's Dress-sleeve, and was reduced one-third in siz-^ ■^r ' ' 
the engraver's shop. By adding one-third in length and width, it 
scale above described. This number contains, also. Double-breasted \\<. 
and single-breasted, for one row of buttons — by leaving off the lapel and rj ;!■.' 
the fore part to fit the breast. 

^raft Wo. € 

Contains body of Dress-coat of St. Louis style of fashion, which may also be 
used for Frock-coat or Over-coat. 

^raf t ^o. S 

Contains Sleeve, Lapel, Collar, and Skirt, belonging to Draft No. 4. These two 
drafts are drawn by a larger scale. Any person wishing the scale or measurement to 
iil these, can get it off of Draft No. 4, by applying a narrow strip of paper to the 
various lines measured on, as if they were taking measure for a coat, and cut 
notches and make numbers in the same manner. 

©rait "Mo. 6 

Has Draft of Measurement for Pantaloons, with measures, notches and numbers 
marked on it, sufficient to draft or cut all sorts, styles and fasliions of Pantaloons, 
which may be desired in city or country. One draft of Pantaloons, lettered and 
numbered by it, is plain to learn by, and may be used by those who fancy the 
fashion. One draft of Spring-bottom, left blank, which may be filled by the 
same scale. 

Siraft mo. 7 

Will fit the scale or measurement of Draft No. 5, which is Lady's Dress- body. 
The breast-piece is trimmed about one number off the waist-part of the bottom, 
for want of room on the diagram, as may be seen by referring to the same. 

Draft No. 8 

Is also by the same measure, and contains Draft of Double-breasted Vest and 
Rolling Collar, which is neither numbered nor lettered, and may be filled by 
following the directions given for changing fashions, or by the scale or measure- 
ment taken from No 3, so far as it applies ; the remainder from No. 8. 






CERTIFICATE OF MR. KSRSHAW. 



I hereby certiiy, that Plates Nos. 4, 5, 7, 8, and Ladies' Dress Sleeve in No. ? 
as well as Spnng-bottoni Pantaloons in No. 6, of Diagrams now being publishe. 
oy i.. DiLDAY, were engraved by me, after patterns furnished by Mr. C. E 
Clarke, a practical tailor of this city, who certified that they truly' representee 
the present prevailing St. Louis Fashions, as used l^y him,' for the garments 
tiierein set forth. JAMES M. KERSHAW. 

St. Louis, January, 1855. 



IMPORTANT TO THE PUBLIC ! 

DO YOUR OWf^ COTTtNO km TAILORING! 

E. DILDAY'S 
NE^v .AND co:noise system 

OF 

GARMEW^T CTJTTINa, 

By which any person oi" ordinary intelligence can learn to cut and fit any 
garment worn by either gentlemen, ladies, or children, in the best manner, and in a 
very short time, without the aid of a teacher, is the best system ever presented 
to the public. 

The Work has just been published in good style, and is now presented for the 
first time, at the low price of TWO DOLLARS per single copy, or TWELVE 
DOLLARS per dozen. 

^W" A Chart, containing the Diagrams, will be furnished at FIFTY CENTS 
per copy, or THREE DOLLARS per dozen. 

Mr. R. V. Kennedy, 88 Market street, St. Louis, is Agent for the above work, 
of whom it can be obtained, wholesale, or by the single copy, by addressing him, 
post-paid, and enclosing the money. Also, of the Proprietor, E. Dilday, 
Jouesboro', Illinois. 

(^° Editc -s of Newspapers copying this advertisement, and giving it one or 
two insertioi , and sending copies of the paper marked to R. V. Kennedy, St. 
Louis, and L. Dilday, Jonesboro', Illinois, will be furnished with a copy of the 
work for tl;eir trouble. " "^^ 






^ II IIIW "111 ■ II 1 1 II I i_. I -. '' 









gsga^ coC<i 


















j;-v« -"(T-ac^s-: <:_ 












m^^^«K«c:^r 



5S^^c:: <cc:<k:<C'^ 









■c<c;c<:<3s:,;,,<rc: 






























5*^^^^Max C5c«K. 









S^cc<r«SET<:c' ^s::< 



see <jC'<3£:£'Sc <aEC« 



ffl&d^-a <rc<3^< 



t cc<rc< ■:* 






^K^r<g.<c 






:^g6S 


















b <.<i coetc < cjci ^E. .<3"c'; .c:^ ^<lw 






« 












PCZc 






<r<r C-. <s£i -•^oc:^ 



'«ijss: 












"Oi^.«C<.<- c«T<; 



.«3S^J^^'' 



cO^^ 






^:<f. 






<1<3C<X«3 



-■ft C c«E_ %" 


















LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 082 774 5 • 



